Following up on
this post...
We've made some progress on both the homemade oval tent and the mail-order circular tent.
The oval tent is currently on track to be up-settable in four different ways: with only guy lines, with hub-and-spokes, with a semirigid spreader hoop at the shoulder, and with
both spokes and a spreader hoop. The first is of course the simplest, but the others have advantages too. We'll have to try all four and see how well each works in practice. Anyway, I attached all the spoke pockets, and all the loops at the shoulder to attach guy lines (one at each seam, and two in between each pair of seams for crow's-feet), then started on the shoulder valence.
shalmestere thought it should be at least a foot wide, and didn't want to bother with a fringe, but I wasn't sure, so I looked at a bunch of pictures of 14th- and 15th-century tents. Most of them had valences, most of the valences had a fringe edge (some of the valences were
nothing but fringe), and the valences were narrow: almost all less than 1/10 the height of the shoulder. So she mail-ordered some fringe (which is not "just for pretty" -- it helps to shed water by giving it defined points to drip from), and I cut out a strip of canvas 8" wide including seam allowances, enough to go all the way around the tent. Haven't attached the fringe to it yet, nor attached it to the roof. Still need to do those things, and attach loops on the inside of the shoulder to hang walls from, and make walls, and attach loops to the tops of the walls to hang from the shoulder, and attach loops to the bottoms of the walls to attach stakes, and cut and attach a sleeve to cover the raw edges of shoulder seams and hold a spreader hoop, and put reinforced holes in the roof peak, and cut a ridge pole, and cut and tie guy lines, and cut and tie stake loops, and make hubs and spokes, and find the finials we mail-ordered years ago, and... I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
Both: Went to Home Depot to get longer pieces of plumbing pipe so the center poles are taller. Home Depot had the pipe, but the pipe-cutting machine was out of order. I guess I could have bought a 10' length of pipe, gotten it home somehow, and cut it myself with a hacksaw, but that would take a long time and probably damage my shoulder and/or elbow. So I called another nearby Home Depot; same story. I called a third nearby Home Depot, and was told that their pipe-cutting machine
was working, and they had the pipe in stock. So Friday afternoon after work,
shalmestere and I went to this third Home Depot and got some pipe. Oddly, "pipe cut to length" is priced by the foot (not "the price of the pipe by the foot, plus a price per cut", which would make sense to me), and
much more expensive than pre-cut lengths: two 3' pipes cost me over twice as much as a 10' length would have. But I bought them anyway.
The circular tent: I also bought a dozen 8' lengths of pine 2x2 for perimeter poles. This was a Web order, so I didn't get to pick out specific pieces, which is why I ordered some spares -- a good idea, since two of them are pretty badly warped. Anyway, I cut the remaining ten to 6'6" each, drilled a hole in one end of each, and drove a 10" steel rod into each hole, so I now have a full complement of perimeter poles. They're probably slightly too long -- the tent manufacturer says 1.85m, which is 6'2" -- but I figured this would be in the right ballpark, and it's easier to cut off a few inches than to add more. Besides, if we're setting up at Pennsic, the ground won't be level anyway; perhaps I'll leave a few of them long for the downhill side of the tent.
Anyway, we now have, theoretically, everything we need to set up the circular tent. It'll look better with crow's-feet or a spreader hoop or something, but those will need more surgery. We probably want to put a grommet in the roof peak so we can put a finial and external storm-guys on top -- the storm-guys not only protect against uprooting but make it easier to set up -- but that can be skipped if we run out of time. Now to find a 30' diameter circular space where we can set it up to confirm that it works, check the perimeter-pole and center-pole heights, and all that.