Back to Notre Dame to climb the towers and see the St. Louis shirt. The upper towers were closed, but the lower tower was quite sufficient both to give us a view and to tire our legs. The Treasury of the Cathedral really doesn't contain much of pre-18th-c. interest, except the shirt
. We spent at least ten minutes in front of it, measuring, sketching, and photographing. The arm-holes are quite large and (if I followed grain lines correctly) fairly steeply sloped: the bottom of the armscye is 4-6" out from the top! The bottom of the shirt is only another 4" out from there. The one remaining arm is quite short -- elbow or mid-forearm, at most -- and has a narrow opening at the end, as though St. Louis had spindly arms. The neck and bottom hems looked rolled to me -- smooth on one side, protruding on the other -- although I'm not sure how to reconcile a rolled neck hem with the continuous reinforcing tapes that go an inch past the point of the V. The armscye seam looked flat-felled to me -- again, smooth on one side, protruding on the other.
Anyway, we left Notre Dame for lunch in the Latin Quarter, thinking to go on to the Museé d'Orsay and/or the Sewer Museum, but changed out minds and returned to the Cathedral for the 15:00 Veneration of the Relics -- a fragment of the True Cross, a nail from the True Cross, and (most special of all) the Crown of Thorns. It was a surprisingly moving experience: as shalmestere
said later, "I have never felt so close to my persona." Anyway, we each bowed and got within an inch or two of what could
be the Crown of Thorns, and is certainly
a bunch of twisted woody spiny stuff dating back at least 800 years.
I finally made my phone call to MCU and was told that no, our ATM cards would not work in France, but that we could take them to a bank, ask for a cash advance, and it would be treated the same way. So I did that, sorta: the two banks where I asked said they don't do cash advances, and both recommended a Bureau de Change, which took out 6% + 1€ as a fee. But that's better than the last place I cashed a traveller's check, which took out 9,8% + 6€ as a fee. So we have cash now.
After dinner shalmestere
came up to where I sat on the bed, waved a pack of cards, and made playful-puppy noises. In reply, I did my famous imitation of a goofy greyhound, playbowing, spinning around in a circle -- and colliding with the corner of the open casement window. I washed the wound in the sink, dabbed up some more blood with paper napkins, and had shalmestere
apply antibiotic cream and press the flap of skin back into place. I think
it's stopped bleeding now... not that it was ever bleeding very hard